Pierpaolo Piccioli Reportedly Set to Leave Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli
Pierpaolo Piccioli could be preparing to leave Balenciaga after just over a year as the house’s creative director, according to multiple industry reports.
Sources cited by fashion publications say Piccioli is expected to depart the Kering-owned luxury house following his upcoming Spring/Summer 2027 runway show in Paris on October 1. Neither Balenciaga nor Kering has publicly confirmed his departure, and Piccioli remains listed as the brand’s artistic director.
If the reports prove accurate, Piccioli’s tenure would come to an unexpectedly early end, underscoring the increasingly intense commercial pressure facing creative directors at major luxury houses.
Piccioli joined Balenciaga in July 2025 after more than two decades at Valentino. He spent 16 years working alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri before becoming Valentino’s sole creative director in 2016. During his time at the Italian house, Piccioli became known for his romantic approach to couture, expressive use of color and dramatic silhouettes.
His appointment at Balenciaga marked a significant shift for the house following Demna’s decade-long tenure. Demna transformed Balenciaga with an oversized, subversive and often dark aesthetic before leaving in 2025 to become Gucci’s creative director. Piccioli instead looked toward the legacy of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga, bringing couture techniques, brighter colors, softer construction and more traditionally elegant silhouettes into the conversation.
His debut collection introduced architectural shapes alongside flowing fabrics and refined tailoring, establishing a different visual direction for the house. In July 2026, Piccioli presented his first haute couture collection for Balenciaga, further exploring volume through sweeping capes, expansive gowns, sculptural shapes and feathered designs.
However, according to reports, concerns over the commercial performance of his direction may have contributed to the potential departure. Industry sources cited in the reports claim that Piccioli’s couture-focused approach did not deliver the level of sales expected by Kering CEO Luca de Meo. One report also points to a significant decline in Balenciaga’s menswear revenue during Piccioli’s tenure. Kering has not publicly confirmed those claims.
The reports arrive as the luxury industry continues to contend with weaker consumer demand, inflation and broader economic uncertainty. Major fashion groups have increasingly faced pressure to restore growth at their most important brands, making creative appointments more closely connected to immediate commercial expectations.
Piccioli’s potential exit would also add to the rapid movement of creative talent across major luxury houses. His own appointment at Balenciaga came after Demna’s move to Gucci, while Alessandro Michele succeeded Piccioli at Valentino after previously leaving Gucci. The constant reshuffling has highlighted how quickly the industry can move when brands are looking to change direction or improve their commercial performance.
A departure after roughly one year would give Piccioli relatively little time to fully establish his vision for Balenciaga. Creative transformations at major fashion houses can take multiple seasons to develop, particularly when a designer is attempting to shift the identity established by a predecessor.
For now, however, Piccioli remains Balenciaga’s artistic director, and the reports surrounding his future remain unconfirmed.
All attention will now turn to Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2027 show in Paris on October 1. The collection was expected to mark another step in Piccioli’s evolving vision for the house. If the reports are accurate, it could instead become one of the final chapters of his brief tenure at Balenciaga.
Editor’s Note: This article is based on reports and claims attributed to industry sources. As of publication, neither Balenciaga nor Kering has officially confirmed Pierpaolo Piccioli’s departure. Piccioli remains listed as Balenciaga’s artistic director. D.M. Fashion Book will update this story if and when the house or Kering provides an official statement.
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
