Pierpaolo Piccioli Departs Balenciaga After 16 Months
Pierpaolo Piccioli is officially parting ways with Balenciaga after just 16 months as creative director, bringing an unexpectedly short chapter at the Kering-owned luxury house to a close.
The designer, who joined Balenciaga in July 2025, will exit following a tenure that saw him introduce a more refined, couture-driven aesthetic to the Parisian fashion house. His departure was confirmed Thursday by Balenciaga and parent company Kering, following weeks of industry speculation about his future at the brand.
Balenciaga president and CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli acknowledged Piccioli’s contributions, highlighting his efforts to reconnect the house with its couture heritage through craftsmanship, construction and creativity. Kering CEO Luca de Meo also praised the designer’s talent and creative vision, expressing appreciation for his work with the house.
Kering added that Balenciaga’s next creative direction will be announced at a later date.
Piccioli arrived at Balenciaga following an extensive career at Valentino, where he spent more than two decades developing a distinctive design language rooted in couture, romantic silhouettes, expressive color and exceptional craftsmanship. He initially worked alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri before becoming the Italian fashion house’s sole creative director in 2016.
His appointment at Balenciaga marked a significant departure from the direction established by his predecessor, Demna, who led the house for nearly a decade before moving to Gucci in 2025. Under Demna, Balenciaga became synonymous with oversized proportions, experimental streetwear, provocative imagery and an unconventional approach to luxury fashion.
Piccioli took a different approach, drawing inspiration from the legacy of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga while introducing his own interpretation of the house’s identity. His collections explored architectural shapes, vibrant colors, flowing fabrics and dramatic couture-inspired silhouettes.
In July 2026, he presented his first haute couture collection for Balenciaga, showcasing sculptural gowns, expansive capes and intricate feathered designs that highlighted his background in high fashion.
Despite the craftsmanship and creative ambition behind his collections, Piccioli’s direction reportedly faced commercial challenges. Industry reports had previously suggested that Kering leadership was concerned about the sales performance of his collections, including a reported decline in Balenciaga’s menswear business. Neither Kering nor Balenciaga has publicly identified commercial performance as the reason for his departure.
His exit also comes amid a broader period of restructuring and creative changes across the luxury industry. Kering has been working to reposition some of its biggest fashion houses as the group navigates softer consumer demand and pressure to improve sales. The movement of designers between major labels has become increasingly frequent, with Demna’s move to Gucci and Alessandro Michele’s appointment at Valentino representing just two examples of the industry’s ongoing creative reshuffling.
There has also been speculation about potential changes at other luxury houses, further highlighting the uncertainty surrounding creative leadership at some of fashion’s most established brands.
For Piccioli, the Balenciaga departure marks another transition following his exit from Valentino in 2024. While his time at the French house was considerably shorter than his tenure in Rome, his appointment represented an opportunity to bring a different perspective to one of fashion’s most recognizable luxury brands.
With Piccioli officially exiting, attention now turns to who will take over Balenciaga and what direction the house will pursue next. Kering says further details regarding the brand’s creative leadership will be announced shortly.
Editor’s Note: This article has been updated following official confirmation from Balenciaga and Kering regarding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s departure. Claims concerning the commercial performance of his collections and the reasons behind his exit are based on industry reporting and have not been independently confirmed by the companies.
By Donovan Moore
D.M. Fashion Book
Photo: Balenciaga
