BREAKING: Martine Rose Returns to Balenciaga as Creative Director
Martine Rose is getting her flowers. The London-based designer, celebrated for her unconventional approach to menswear and her influence on contemporary streetwear, has officially been named the new creative director of Balenciaga. Kering announced the appointment on Friday, November 6, marking a new chapter for the French luxury fashion house.
Rose will succeed Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure was announced after less than 18 months in the role. Based in Paris, she is scheduled to officially take up the position on November 16, becoming the first woman to serve as creative director of Balenciaga in the house’s 109-year history.
Although the appointment marks a new chapter, Rose is no stranger to Balenciaga. She previously worked closely with Demna during his early years at the house, serving as a menswear consultant from 2015 to 2018. During that period, she helped shape the brand’s approach to menswear, contributing to the oversized proportions, unconventional styling and distressed, vintage-inspired aesthetic that became defining elements of the Demna era.
Now, Rose returns with creative oversight of the entire house, bringing her distinct perspective on fashion, music, street culture and contemporary identity.
In a statement announcing the appointment, Kering described Rose’s arrival as an important step in Balenciaga’s evolution, highlighting her understanding of the house’s creative identity and her ability to connect it with contemporary culture.
“Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion. Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision,” said Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering. He also pointed to her connection with younger generations and instinctive understanding of culture as important assets for the brand’s future.
Gianfranco Gianangeli, president and CEO of Balenciaga, echoed that sentiment, describing Rose as an extraordinary creative talent with a distinctive vision and an ability to challenge conventions, reinvent silhouettes and bring unexpected perspectives to fashion.
Rose also shared her excitement about taking on the position.
“It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,” she said. “Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.”
From London’s Underground Scene to the Paris Fashion House
Since founding her eponymous label in 2007, Rose has established herself as one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary fashion. Her work draws heavily from British subcultures, including football casuals, rave culture, reggae, punk and the everyday style of London’s diverse communities.
Rather than following traditional luxury conventions, Rose has built a recognizable design language around exaggerated proportions, unexpected combinations, sportswear influences and gender-fluid silhouettes. Her collections frequently blur the lines between high fashion and everyday streetwear, giving familiar wardrobe staples an entirely different perspective.
Her designs have attracted a notable following among celebrities and cultural figures, including Kendrick Lamar, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Drake, Naomi Campbell and Timothée Chalamet.
Kendrick Lamar has been particularly vocal about his appreciation for the designer. Following their collaboration for his 2022 Big Steppers tour, the rapper publicly expressed his desire to work with Rose, highlighting the growing influence of her creative vision beyond the traditional fashion industry.
Throughout her career, Rose has also collaborated with several major brands, including Nike, Supreme, Napapijri and Tommy Hilfiger. In 2023, she became the first guest creative director for Clarks and was invited to serve as a guest menswear designer at Pitti Uomo.
Her longstanding relationship with Nike has also produced memorable footwear collaborations, including interpretations of the Shox silhouette that helped introduce her design language to an even wider audience.
A New Direction for Balenciaga
Rose’s appointment arrives at an important moment for Balenciaga and its parent company, Kering. Under Demna, the house developed a strong connection with younger fashion consumers through provocative runway presentations, oversized silhouettes, unconventional footwear and a willingness to challenge traditional ideas of luxury.
While Piccioli brought a different perspective rooted in romanticism, craftsmanship and his experience at Valentino, Rose’s arrival could signal a renewed emphasis on street culture, youth-driven fashion and the relationship between luxury and everyday dressing.
Her understanding of menswear also presents an opportunity for Balenciaga to continue developing one of the categories that helped establish its modern identity. However, her responsibilities will extend well beyond menswear, with women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and leather goods also expected to play important roles in the house’s future growth.
Kering has previously identified Balenciaga as a brand with significant opportunities to connect with younger consumers and expand its business. Rose’s ability to create recognizable pieces that resonate across fashion, music and street culture could become an important part of that strategy.
Her appointment also comes at a complicated time for her namesake label. Rose sold a majority stake in her business to fashion incubator Tomorrow Ltd., and disagreements surrounding the company’s direction and management eventually created challenges for the designer.
In March 2026, Rose announced that she would not move forward with producing her Fall 2026 collection amid the dispute. The situation developed further when Tomorrow sold the business to Italian company The Level Group earlier this year.
The Fall 2026 collection, which featured elements of 1990s clubwear, dark denim, vibrant pink fur and lingerie-inspired detailing, never entered production under Rose’s original plans. The designer has not staged a runway presentation since her Spring 2026 collection.
Despite those challenges, her appointment at Balenciaga represents a significant career milestone and places her at the helm of one of the most recognizable names in global luxury fashion.
With Rose set to officially begin her new position on November 16, the fashion industry will be watching closely to see how she translates her distinctive creative language into the next chapter of Balenciaga.
One thing is certain: the designer who helped shape part of the house’s recent history is now returning to lead its future.
Rose’s appointment comes amid a broader creative shake-up across Kering’s luxury portfolio. The changes include Anthony Vaccarello’s exit from Saint Laurent after a decade of creative leadership, and Seán McGirr’s departure from Alexander McQueen after nearly three years at the helm. With successors for both positions yet to be announced, speculation surrounding potential candidates continues to build, with several women reportedly among the names being considered. Depending on the final appointments, Kering could be heading toward a significant shift in its creative leadership, with women potentially making up the majority of creative directors across its fashion houses.
By Donovan Moore
D.M. Fashion Book
Photo: Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, Met Gala 2017
